Mid-20th Century

The mid-20th century dating from the 1950s through the 1970s was a time of great creativity in jewelry design, driven in a large part by the changing tastes and fashions of the American consumer. Many of the great makers remained at the pinnacle of the field, and a number of important new designers emerged to redefine style for a new generation. The 1950s were a decade of prosperity and a growing middle class, and fashion, femininity and classic glamour returned to style. Jewelry designs remained sizable, but were more open and textural than the chunkier styles that proceeded it. Diamonds became increasingly popular with DeBeer’s introduction of the famous phrase “A Diamond is Forever,” and were featured as spray designs in brooches and earrings. The dynamism of the 1960s was reflected in the bold and colorful jewelry of the era. Gold began to grow again in popularity and animal and nature inspirations were popular. The 1970s reflected a continuation of these trends – long necklaces, medallion pendants and oversized earrings were all in fashion. Gold still ruled and favored gemstones of the day were darker and more natural in color in shades of burgundy, deep blue and purple. The important makers of the mid-20th century include Van Cleef and Arpels, Bulgari, David Webb, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany, Harry Winston, Sterlé, and Kutchinsky.