GEORGIAN
1714 –1837
GEORGIAN 1714 –1837
Named for Kings George I, II, III and IV of Great Britain, the Georgian period spans well over a century. Throughout that time, sartorial styles evolved from rococo to gothic to neoclassical. But one element was more or less a constant: plunging necklines. With all eyes on the décolletage, short necklaces were important. Rivieres draped clavicles with rows of regal gemstones and chokers wrapped throats with strands of pearls. To picture the era’s style, imagine the world of Jane Austen. Emma Woodhouse and Elizabeth Bennet would have worn jewels like these.
At beginning of the Georgian period, diamond pieces were most popular, but sapphire, garnet, topaz and amethyst gained favor throughout the years. Stones were never cut specifically for a certain piece of jewelry, so a single design often contains different sizes, shapes and cuts. The gems were backed with foil to enhance their brilliance and color, and set in closed collets. Diamonds were thought to look best in white metal, but because platinum was too difficult to work with, they were set in silver. Gold was layered over the back of the silver to prevent tarnish from staining skin or clothing. If you own a piece of Georgian jewelry, consider yourself very lucky. Jewels from the era are exceptionally rare because many of them were taken apart or reworked to fit later styles.
VICTORIAN
1837–1901
VICTORIAN 1837–1901
We have the Victorians to thank for some of today’s most popular jewelry motifs, including hearts, serpents, stars and butterflies. These feminine, whimsical themes reflect the prosperity, romanticism and sentimentality that defined the period of Queen Victoria’s British rule, from 1837 until her death in 1901. From old mine diamonds set in silver collets and backed with gold, to hand-chased gold and enamel jewels, to bold colored gemstones worn in fresh and creative ways, Victorian jewelry displays a range of styles and crafting techniques. Personal jewelry was imbued with meaning, and lockets and rings were symbolic mementos to exchange between family, friends, lovers and spouses.
When Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, died in 1861, she put on her mourning attire and proceeded to wear only black for the rest of her life. This sparked a national fervor for all things dark, including jewels of jet, onyx and garnet.
The Victorians were also fascinated by the romance of faraway times and places. Historical art and architecture, from the masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance to the recent archeological discoveries of Ancient Egyptian and Etruscan artifacts, inspired a passion for revival jewelry.
ART NOUVEAU
late 1800s–1910
ART NOUVEAU LATE 1800s – 1910
Every prevailing aesthetic has a counter-movement, and so it was with Art Nouveau, a revolt against the industrial age and its classical, formulaic designs. The movement took hold in Paris, with sensuous, organic forms shaping decorative arts and architecture—most famously, the Paris Metro entrances.
In Art Nouveau jewelry, the female form was a recurring theme and beautiful women were often depicted as enchanted nymphs, fairies or mermaids—an outright scandal to the prevailing Victorian and Edwardian sensibilities. Natural themes were also important: butterflies, dragonflies and beetles flitted about pendants and earrings, while peacock feathers, orchids, water lilies and ferns wound their way around bracelets and rings.
Art Nouveau championed hand craftsmanship and naturalism over precious materials and overt displays of wealth. Less expensive materials, such as silver, moonstone, horn and other natural elements were widely used. Colorful enameling techniques, such as plique-a-jour and cloisonné, reflected the artisan’s skill. In fact, this was the beginning of the jewelry designer as named artist. The great makers of the period, including Rene Lalique, Louis Comfort Tiffany and Karl Faberge, are renowned for advancing the new style, and their work is highly collectible today. In the mid-1960s, Art Nouveau jewelry found the ideal moment for revival when the era’s dreamy, psychedelic motifs swirled across posters for rock music festivals.
EDWARDIAN
1901–1910
EDWARDIAN 1901 – 1910
Although the Edwardian period officially began in Great Britain in 1901 when Edward, son of Victoria, ascended to the British throne, stylistic elements of the era (known as La Belle Epoque in France) began while his mother was still alive, and continued for a few years after his death. King Edward reveled in luxury, and his rich countrymen followed his lead. Elegance and fashion were the rule, with jewelry glittering brightly at galas in London townhouses and Parisian hôtels particuliers.
metalworking—specifically the invention of the oxyacetylene torch, which could reach very high temperatures—allowed jewelers to forge airy, lightweight designs from platinum, which till then had been too challenging to work with. This gave way to the delicate platinum bows, ribbons and tassels of the garland style. Jewelry was often edged with delicate platinum millgraining—another technique made possible by new technology. Necklaces veered in length from the choker to the sautoir—a very long chain or beaded necklace, often terminating in tassels. But in fact, these “new” styles weren’t exactly new; they were inspired by the Court of Versailles of the late 1700s—another era of over-the-top luxury.
ART DECO
EARLY 1920s–1935
ART DECO EARLY 1920s – 1935
Reflecting the flamboyant and playful attitudes of the Jazz Age, the Art Deco period is one of the most popular and enduring periods of jewelry design. Defined by geometric shapes, angular lines and graphic color schemes, jewels of the era took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist movement, as well as from Ancient Egypt—King Tut’s tomb was discovered in 1922. Black onyx set against white diamonds and rock crystal ruled the day, but rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls were also popular. When you imagine the legendary flapper girls of the Roaring 20s, their quintessential accouterments—long strands of pearls and graceful, swinging earrings—spring immediately to mind.
The great jewelry houses, including Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels created some of their most iconic work during the Art Deco period. Interestingly, the movement was not labeled by this name until the 1960s. The term “Art Deco” was derived from the seminal 1925 Paris L’Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes. A burgeoning new design style, Art Moderne, would also take its name from this exhibition. Its dimensional, industrial-inspired creations were a backlash to Art Deco, and became an influential trend in the decades to follow.
ART DECO
early 1920s–1935
ART DECO EARLY 1920S – 1935
Reflecting the flamboyant and playful attitudes of the Jazz Age, the Art Deco period is one of the most popular and enduring periods of jewelry design. Defined by geometric shapes, angular lines and graphic color schemes, jewels of the era took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist movement, as well as from Ancient Egypt—King Tut’s tomb was discovered in 1922. Black onyx set against white diamonds and rock crystal ruled the day, but rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls were also popular. When you imagine the legendary flapper girls of the Roaring 20s, their quintessential accouterments—long strands of pearls and graceful, swinging earrings—spring immediately to mind.
The great jewelry houses, including Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels created some of their most iconic work during the Art Deco period. Interestingly, the movement was not labeled by this name until the 1960s. The term “Art Deco” was derived from the seminal 1925 Paris L’Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes. A burgeoning new design style, Art Moderne, would also take its name from this exhibition. Its dimensional, industrial-inspired creations were a backlash to Art Deco, and became an influential trend in the decades to follow.
ART DECO
EARLY 1920s–1935
ART DECO EARLY 1920S – 1935
Reflecting the flamboyant and playful attitudes of the Jazz Age, the Art Deco period is one of the most popular and enduring periods of jewelry design. Defined by geometric shapes, angular lines and graphic color schemes, jewels of the era took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist movement, as well as from Ancient Egypt—King Tut’s tomb was discovered in 1922. Black onyx set against white diamonds and rock crystal ruled the day, but rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls were also popular. When you imagine the legendary flapper girls of the Roaring 20s, their quintessential accouterments—long strands of pearls and graceful, swinging earrings—spring immediately to mind.
The great jewelry houses, including Cartier, Tiffany and Van Cleef & Arpels created some of their most iconic work during the Art Deco period. Interestingly, the movement was not labeled by this name until the 1960s. The term “Art Deco” was derived from the seminal 1925 Paris L’Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes. A burgeoning new design style, Art Moderne, would also take its name from this exhibition. Its dimensional, industrial-inspired creations were a backlash to Art Deco, and became an influential trend in the decades to follow.
RETRO
1935–1950
RETRO 1935 – 1950
The term “retro” gets bandied about to describe all sorts of vintage fashion. But in the context of jewelry, Retro refers to the period of early Modernism that began in 1935, spanned World War II, and lasted through the mid-1950s. During the war and the Great Depression, as women began entering the workforce, clothing became simpler. In contrast to apparel’s thrift and severity, jewelry became bigger and brighter than it had been in decades, taking cues from Hollywood stars like Lana Turner, Joan Crawford and Lauren Bacall.
Styles ranged from feminine and romantic, with motifs like birds, flowers and seashells, to geometric and industrial (a sub-category known as Art Moderne), with patriotic and industrial expressions inspired by factory production lines and tank treads. Although the themes differed greatly, the unifying characteristic of Retro designs is that they are highly dimensional, rather than flat like their Art Deco predecessors. Platinum was reserved for the war effort, so gold—not only yellow, but rose and green, too—resurged in popularity. Amethysts, citrines and aquamarines took center stage in bold cocktail rings, and bracelets were especially important: oversize gold links exuded power, while charm bracelets were whimsical and romantic. Clip-on earrings were patented in 1934, which ignited a trend for earrings worn close to the ear.
MID 20th CENTURY
1950s, '60s and '70s
MID-20TH CENTURY 1950s, ’60s AND ’70s
The 1950s were a decade of prosperity and with that came a return to femininity and glamour in fashion. Jewelry designs remained oversize, but were more open and textural than the chunkier styles that preceded them. Diamonds set in platinum were back en vogue. In fact, one of the era’s most indelible images is Marilyn Monroe, sheathed in fuchsia and dripping in jewelry, singing “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend” in 1953’s Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.
The dynamism of the 1960s was reflected in the bold, bright jewelry of the era. Picture the wide variety of styles depicted on Mad Men: colorful brooches, gemstone bib necklaces, pop art earrings. Opaque materials in vivid colors, such as coral and turquoise, mirrored the hues of the fashion world. Designers looked to Asia, India and Africa for inspiration; the result was a resurgence of gold as well as exotic, global themes. The important makers of the era include Van Cleef and Arpels, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany, Harry Winston, Sterlé and Kutchinsky.
Bohemian style continued into the 1970s. Gold still ruled, and the favored gemstones were darker and more natural in color—shades of burgundy, deep blue and purple. By the end of the decade, punk style started to influence jewelers, and spikes and studs—think Cartier’s Juste un Clou—hit the scene.
